Get back here if you have more questions. You should use an automotive polishing compound and a buffer for big areas. This can cost $70 - $100 per plank (depending on the installer). If you aren't seeing the fine scratches, you don't have a good enough light on your work. Is that sufficient for adhesion? Rubbing out a finish requires you to use a high gloss. When I was rubbing it looked like I had a few witness lines where I rubbed through the top layer of poly into the next layer. Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience. The 2nd company I hired, I purchased the products and everything has been fine until 30 days later. Slate, while harder, is easier to scratch / abrade / polish. Clean all residue when done with a damp cloth. I went to their website and saw that the Abranet series abrasives are mesh and go up to 2000 grit. Unfortunately due to the grain of the old oak top it is not easy to get a consistent look (i.e. put occluders into the product to dull the finish making it less transparent and softer. It is more abrasion resistant and, after all, rubbing is abrasion. Somebody here may be able to help with brushing the Deft. Can you put a matte polyurethane over a semi-gloss polyurethane to make it a matte finish? If it is okay, does it matter which polyurethane sheen to use? Before the last coat you need to get the surface level. I prefer to use a better varnish than polyurethane, but some will work alright (usually not Minwax products). !how to How To Make Polyurethane Finish Less Shiny for Floating or wall-mounted nightstands differ from other types through the fact that they don’t occupy any floor space. I would try to use the same brand of satin finish as the gloss. If you did this yourself (I can't imagine a DIY bamboo floor...but never mind) then I'm sorry to say but you no longer have a warranty and all you can do is try. Getting it to stick to wood or grass is no problem...the glue that is in the bamboo makes it very difficult to achieve a good stick. I was working on it this morning and I used a 320 grit on a sanding block and with a low amount of pressure went over the surface 3 or 4 passes in the direction of the grain. I had air scrubbers running, I had windows open for 40 days, carbon filters, etc. If you want a satin or semi- finish just rub it out to different degrees. If I go up to 2000 grit (or 4000 if I can find it) and then I go with Meguires (or comparable 3M polishes), does anyone have a recommendation for which particular Meguires products (or 3M) to use? Why did my third coat of polyurethane finish “buckle”? If polyurethane is harder to rub out because it is scratch resistance, doesn't that mean that Deft would be less scratch resistant at the end of the day? If I purchase and apply a new coat of SATIN finish will that work OK over a the GLOSS finish? The only thing that might be better is a good French polish, but I personally don't have the time or patience for that. site design / logo © 2020 Stack Exchange Inc; user contributions licensed under cc by-sa. The desk had previously been finished but the old finish was cracked and coming off so I had stripped and sanded the top before this new finish coat. It will take me less than an hour to do a table with all four. Just curious what the effect will be. You wet the felt with oil, dip it in a coating of pumice, and you're off to the races.IMO it's never as good with poly because it will always be somewhat dull when rubbed out, because of the molecular structure. The reason we don't skip from 100-220 is it is too damn hard and takes too long (if ever) to completely obliterate scratches made with 100 by using just 220. I'm going to try a sealer in the floorboards. Does it still protect as well? I'm 4 months into this. Getting polyurethane to stick to "glue" is very difficult.

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